In time, slotted plate devices like the Sticht gave way to the tubular device, also known as tubers ( 3). Later, the German climbing manufacturer Edelrid came up with the Bankl, which was directly inspired by the original slotted plate design. In the 1970s, the first patented belay device was the Sticht Plate ( 2), named after Fritz Sticht. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. The ATC by Black Diamond is a contemporary iteration of older tube-style belay devices. Similarly, in the climbing context, the belayer (and the belay device) are responsible for the climber’s safe fall. The airport’s air traffic controller controls the aircraft’s safe landing. One of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller or ATC.īlack Diamond’s most tried and true belay device was named the ATC to facetiously draw the connection between a falling climber and an aircraft trying to land at the airport. This progression in the sport of climbing, of trying harder and feeling okay to fall, has its roots implanted in creating one of the most reliable belay devices known to the sport– the Black Diamond ATC ( 1). As a result, most climber falls are no longer catastrophic– so long as the belayer does their job, of course.īecause belaying is safer and falling while climbing has become normalized, climbers can push themselves into more challenging and more complicated terrain. The sport of climbing has evolved because belaying techniques and gear have become much safer. Keep reading to learn about the most iconic belay device– the Black Diamond ATC. The tube-style device, assisted braking devices, and other belay devices have changed the face of what it means to belay. Climbing and belaying have become much safer, mostly thanks to modern belay devices. This is especially true for climbing equipment, most notably – belay devices.īack in the day, the proper belay technique was as simple as wrapping one rope around your waist (and maybe shoulders) to give a “hip-belay.” Unfortunately, belaying was so insecure that the safety guidelines for climbers were not to fall. Advantages and Drawbacks of ATC Belay DevicesĬlimbing has come a long way since its old-school origins.Black Diamond strongly recommends that the ATC Pilot be used with an HMS carabiner, like their GridLock, rather than a D-shaped ‘biner to ensure the greatest level of holding force.The ATC Pilot cannot be used in guide-mode.The ATC Pilot cannot be used for double-rope rappelling, which means this will not replace or serve as your go-to rappel device.If choosing to go for Black Diamond’s ATC Pilot, there are a few important points to note: The Pilot is also lighter.” Important factors to know Smart Alpine – Also considered an ‘assisted braking device’ – this device accepts half as well as single ropes. We believe the Pilot to be well designed, more intuitive and easier to use. “The ATC Pilot is ‘geometry assisted braking device’ and the MegaJul is considered an ‘assisted braking device’. Its lighter than the Smart, more intuitive and easier to use than the Mega Jul. On their YouTube video page for the device, Black Diamond asserts that This assisted-braking tubular design has become a favorite for many climbers as a lightweight and safety-enhancing option for single-pitch belaying in the climbing gym or at the crag. The ATC Pilot from Black Diamond joins the ranks of other assisted-braking tubular designed belay devices, including the Mammut Smart, Edelrid Jul 2, and the Ergo from Salewa. If you feel like you’ve used or seen a similar belay device design, it’s because you have. It also costs considerably less: $44.95 instead of $150. After the belay device catches the climber, the belayer simply rotates the device to release on the rope for a gradual lower using their brake hand.īlack Diamond constructed the ATC Pilot with molded stainless steel for lasting durability and added the ergonomic and comfortable Grilamid material to offer ergonomic comfort and maintain its light weight.Īs a result of this simple structure, the ATC Pilot provides a light yet secure belaying option weighing a mere 86 grams (3 ounces), as compared to the 200 grams (7 ounces) of the GriGri +. Unlike a more complex device, like the extremely popular GriGri from Petzl, the geometry of this tubular design enables you to catch your climber without relying on any moving parts. The all-new ATC Pilot from Black Diamond presents climbers with a simple and reliable assisted-braking belay device for single-pitch climbs, both indoors and out.
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